Root > Wood > Movement
Wood Movement
Moisture
The 2x4 that you buy at the lumberyard began as a living tree. As a living tree,
the trunk of the tree provided a mechanism to transport water (in the form of sap)
from the roots to the leaves. When this tree trunk is cut down, the sap stops flowing,
but the sap remains in the trunk. Wood that is freshly cut is referred to as green
wood or wet wood, referring to its high moisture content (40% or more!)
This raw wood is then stripped of bark and branches, and then cut into various sized
blanks. Traditionally, these blanks are air dried to approximately 15% moisture
content, giving up its moisture to the atmosphere. Current practice involves using
a kiln to dry wood to an even lower moisture content, approximately 7-10% moisture
content.
But once you purchase that 2x4, its moisture content will not remain constant. Just
like a sponge, the wood will absorb moisture from the air and expand, or give up
moisture and shrink.
Direction
Wood that expands and contracts due to changes in moisture content will do so along
predictable lines. With a little bit of knowledge, you can predict the degree of
wood movement, and take appropriate action to accomodate the movement. Wood shrinks
most in the direction of the annual growth rings (tangentially), and only half as
much across the rings (radially, or from the centre of the tree to the outer edge).
Wood that is harvested from near the center of the trunk will display less movement
than wood that is harvested from the edge of the trunk. If you look at the end of
a piece of wood, you will be able to see lines which are the so-called age rings
of trees. Looking at the direction of the curves, you will be able to determine
the direction of the heart of the tree, and of course the other side will be the
outside of the tree. The combined effects of radial and tangential shrinkage can
distort the shape of wood pieces because of the difference in shrinkage and the
curvature of annual rings. The major types of distortion as a result of these effects
are illustrated in Figure 3–3.
It shrinks most in the direction of the annual growth rings (tangentially), about
half as much across the rings (radially), and only slightly along the grain (longitudinally).
Flat-sawn - These boards will cup away from the heart of the tree. The shrinking
will occur mostly in its width.
- Riftsawn - These boards will warp and shrink into a trapezoidal or diamond shape
- Quarter-sawn - These boards will shrink slightly in both length and width. The side
of the board closest to the hart will not display much variance, but the side farthest
from the hart will display most of the dimensional changes.
- Square Block - Similar to the rift-sawn boards, these will warp and shrink into
a trapezoidal or diamond shape
- Through-and-Through - These boards are similar to flat-sawn and quarter-sawn boards,
except the heart of the tree passes extremely close to the centre of this board.
This causes some cupping, along with some reduced thickness along the ends furthest
from the heart
- Post or Dowel - Unless cut from the exact center or heart of a tree, these will
shrink to a slightly oval shape. Smaller dowels won't display much change, however
larger dowels will display greater variance.
Wood Species
Different wood species will display different rates of shrinkage and therefore different
species will display different rates of movement. The following are an example of
the most commonly used woods in Canada and the United States, sorted by their shrinkage
factors.
These species are sorted by their tangential expansion factors, meaning how much
they would expand along the direction of the wood's annual growth rings:
|
Species
|
Tangential
|
Type
|
|
Cedar, Northern white
|
0.00229
|
Softwood
|
|
Cedar, western red
|
0.00234
|
Softwood
|
|
Pine, lodgepole
|
0.00234
|
Softwood
|
|
Cherry, black
|
0.00248
|
Hardwood
|
|
Yellow-poplar
|
0.00289
|
Hardwood
|
|
Red oak: water, laurel, willow
|
0.00350
|
Hardwood
|
|
Maple, sugar
|
0.00353
|
Hardwood
|
|
White Oak, commercial
|
0.00365
|
Hardwood
|
These species are sorted by their radial expansion factors, meaning how much they
would expand across the grain:
|
Species
|
Radial
|
Type
|
|
Cedar, Northern white
|
0.00101
|
Softwood
|
|
Cedar, western red
|
0.00111
|
Softwood
|
|
Cherry, black
|
0.00126
|
Hardwood
|
|
Pine, lodgepole
|
0.00148
|
Softwood
|
|
Red oak: water, laurel, willow
|
0.00151
|
Hardwood
|
|
Yellow-poplar
|
0.00158
|
Hardwood
|
|
Maple, sugar
|
0.00165
|
Hardwood
|
|
White Oak, commercial
|
0.00180
|
Hardwood
|
From this you can see that species like cedar have a well deserved reputation for
their stability, along with other species such as catalpa, mahogany, teak, and redwood.
Other species, such as the ever popular oak or maple, display almost double the
expansion factors of the more stable species.
Please note that the numbers used to perform this calculation were taken from Wood
Handbook: Wood as an engineering material (see bibliography).
How Much Will It Shrink?
To help you estimate how much movement you can expect from a piece of wood, enter
the size, select the type of wood, then click the button
Size: (decimal units only, i.e.: 9.5, 23, or 254, etc)Please enter a starting dimension
in decimal units
Wood Type:
Shrinkage from % to % humidity: along the grain lines and across the grain lines
Expansion from % - % himidity: along the grain lines and across the grain lines.
Please note that the numbers used to perform this calculation were taken from Wood
Handbook: Wood as an engineering material (see bibliography).
Dealing With Movement
So now that you know wood moves, and how much you can expect it to move, you can
now focus your attention on dealing with the movement of the wood.
As a woodworker, you might design and build a dresser with a solid white oak top
which is 24 inches wide. If you build the dresser during the humid summer months
when the wood has acclimated to the ambient humidity of 11%, when the dresser is
finished and installed in the bedroom and acclimates to the dry winter air at 7%
humidity, your table top will have shrunk down to 23.65 inches (that's a loss
of 3/8"!).
That means that methods of installation that don't take into account the movement
of the wood will lead to the cracking, warping, bowing, or some other deformation
of the surface. This is definitely not something that you want on a piece that you
spent so much money and time working on.
The solution to this problem is usually a simple one: don't stop the wood from
moving, but account for its movement when you make a project. Allow the wood to
move and instead fasten the piece using some mechanism that lets the wood move yet
still holds the component together.
Ultimately, as a designer and builder, you should evaluate your piece for the effects
of expansion and build in the appropriate measures to deal with it.
Non-Woods
This look into wood movement deals only with solid wood. Many materials that you
will use are not actually solid wood, and do not display much expansion or contraction
due to moisture. In some ways, this can be a boon to you as a woodworker, and you
may design with these materials to overcome some wood-movement issues. These alternatives
are usually not as pretty as solid wood, and their edges must always be concealed
or trimmed in some manner.
MDF (or medium density fibreboard) and HDF (high density fibreboard, or hardboard)
is basically sawdust that has been moistened with a glue and then compacted. The
fibres that form MDF and HDF are not significantly affected by atmospheric moisture,
and so you do not need to account for its expansion. What you do need to protect
it from is direct contact with water, since prolonged exposure with water will cause
this material to degrade, flake, and lose all ridgidity.
Particleboard is essentially wood chips that have undergone the same process as
MDF. There is a great range in the quality of particleboard, and the products offered
by some manufacturers is far stronger or workable than others. But since the wood
chips are small and randomly oriented, the overall board is stable in all directions.
Plywood is created by many thin layers of wood glued and pressed together. Plywood
has more stability than solid wood since the layers are glued with alternating grain
directions, so any expansion is minimized, and therefore the final plywood product
is considered very stable.
Frame-and-Panel
Individual pieces smaller than 2 or 3 inches usually are not a factor. The amount
of expansion is not particularly significant, so the frame of most frame-and-panel
constructions are not affected. The panel in the center, however, is often made
of solid wood material, and the solution is to allow a gap in the mortise/groove
along the side stiles. The amount of gap can be calculated by using the calculator
above, since it may vary depending on how large the panel is.
Panels made of MDF, hardboard or glass do not need to account for expansion since
these materials do not deform significantly due to atmospheric humidity.
Chest / Case
Chests and cases are basically boxes with solid wood sides and tops. If the box
has all the grain in the same direction flowing from side to side, the box will
essentially get taller or shorter as it exapands and contracts with changing humidity.
Any time two pieces of wood are attached with grains running in different directions,
the method of attachment needs to be a sliding mechanism, such as oversized holes
or slots on cleats allowing the screw to slide.
Joints
Any time two pieces of wood are attached with grains running in different directions,
the joint between the two becomes a factor. Joints that link end grain to end grain
are safe since the expansion of both pieces will be identical (assuming they both
use the same type of wood!). Edge-to-edge joints (long grain to parallel long grain)
are similarly safe for the same reason.
Problems arise, though, whenever you have end-to-edge joints, or perpendicular edge-to-edge
joints (where the long grain of one piece is joined across the long grain of another
piece). In these situations, using solid joints such as dovetails or even glued
joints will lead to eventual joint failure or fracturing of the wood. An alternate
means of attaching the piece should be considered.
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